Jackson Marwell (USA)

From 7 – 13 October 2023 Americans Jackson Marvell, Matt Cornell, and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m route Round Trip Ticket was graded M7 AI5+ A0 and has been hailed as “visionary” and “maybe the best alpine climb done in the last few decades”. Their ascent came after two previous failed attempts, the first by Marvell and Rousseau in 2021, the second by Cornell and Rousseau in 2022. The trio, which in the past has climbed calibre routes together such as Aim for the bushes on the East Face of Mount Dickey in Alaska, dug deep into their combined experience in order to successfully climb the mountain. Cornell stated that “consumed by event of the climb we lost the meaning of individuality”.